Under My Skin

When I met my best friend Carol I was a tom boy who worked at an indie record store.  I remember telling her how much I liked her bag and then chatting with her about the cassettes she was purchasing.  I was an painfully awkward 18 year old who was trying to find herself.  I had few female friends and was anxious to meet more as I grew tired of the constant testosterone fest my life was at the time and had been for most of my teen years. Most of my friends were guys who shared the same interest in hard, fast and heavy music, but they tended to not have a softer side interested in things like bleaching hair and finding the perfect scarlet red lip stick.

Carol would come into the store probably once a week and we got to know each other better.  She told me that she had a part time job at the Body Shop at Regency Mall (the fancy mall of the era) and I did not even know what that was.  When she told me that it was as store with cruelty free makeup and skin care I became interested and asked her to “take me to do whatever it is girls do”.

I remember walking into the store and becoming entranced with the smells and packaging of the products.  Carol and her co-workers kindly guided me through the process of creating a “skin care routine”.  I remember being particularly excited by the concept of “exfoliation” where I removed dead skin cells from my face with these beautiful beads made out of a Japanese grain of some kind.

I fell in love with the ritual of having a daily routine of cleansing, toning and hydrating.  It relaxed me and gave me a form of control over at least on element in my chaotic young adult life.  Peels and masks appeared in my bathroom much to my boyfriend’s surprise.  Gone was the girl who drunkenly fall asleep in her cat-eye liner after staying up late partying post Buzzoven show.  I was turning into a woman who used a chamomile cleanser to take off her cat eye nightly for fear of premature aging and clogged pores.

My skin changed as I aged and what once was a calming ritual became a painful experience. I developed adult acne.  My first bout was when I was 21.  These small little whiteheads formed all over my forehead.  They disgusted me and I felt a shame I had never known in my younger years as I was blessed to have only gotten the occasional pimple.  I eventually braved a trip to my doctor to address the issue.  I was given a medication that dried my skin out horribly and made me flake all over the place but did get rid of the acne.  The experience opened my eyes to the emotional pain that millions of people experience due to skin conditions.

For a couple years I got to enjoy calm and clear skin and went back loving my skin care ritual.  Sadly this did not last long as in my mid 20’s my skin decided it wanted to develop horrific hormonal acne.  I had painful cyst like pimples generally on my chin.  They did not pop and they did not go away for long periods of time.  My doctor had no suggestions for me- hormonal acne was not as well understood as it has become over the last few years.  I did not have the money to seek out a specialist who may have been able to help so I tried countless products that more often than not caused more damage than good.  I was back to feeling ashamed and angry at what I saw when I looked in the mirror.

Also I had just started beauty school.  I was immersed in an environment that worshipped beauty and here I was walking around with zits raging with puss desperate to be popped. I felt completely out of sorts and far from attractive.  In addition to my skin shame my beauty school was not one that represented my personal esthetic or style.  There were only a couple other “punk” girls and as I soon found out I had little in common with them as they came from a different part of the scene, one that I did not grow up with in little ol’ Richmond Virginia.  I went to school in Costa Mesa California – an affluent area close to one of the largest luxury retailers in the world, South Coast Plaza.  The beauty norm at my school even for the “punks” was very “Real Housewives”, not a small chested, skinny girl with a short and choppy bleached blonde hair style and raging acne.

It had been a long time since I felt this bad about my appearance and wanted to change things.  I invested it what was then the best product for acne prone skin- a Pro Active type system.  I was so broke that I couldn’t afford the real thing- so a Target knock off had to do. I was fortunate and my skin cleared after about 2 months.  I kept using the system after I needed to not understanding that these products are not intended for long- term use.  I did some damage to my skin in terms of scarring and making my pores more prominent due to the harsh chemicals used to treat acne in these types of systems.  I started to feel as if I was never going to find a happy routine and place with my skin again.

It is only recently that I have found that happy place.  I started working in the cosmetics industry for Benefit and was exposed to more information about skin.  I made friends with several aestheticians one of whom really broke things down for me.  Her name is Sabrina and if you live in Austin go see her at Vain salon.  She taught me that you have to find balance in your skin care routine and that a good routine is not going be the same for each person.

She got me in the habit of using a Clarisonic and a better quality of product than I had been using (she mostly uses Eminence and sells it at http://www.sauveurskincare.com/online-store).  I saw that my skin was an investment.  It was an investment into my happiness.  That I felt my best when I did not have to cake concealer on but had a natural glow.  And that I was better off achieving that glow through wise skin care purchases and facials than via heavy foundation.

I am writing about this because the most common request I get from people who read my blog or who follow me on instagram is to give them my “skin care secrets”.  There are no such things as skin care secrets. There is no one way to achieve a great complexion.  Sadly much of what is out there is misleading marketing and a lack of scientific standards for effectiveness of products. There are also unrealistic expectations put on us as a society via social media and advertising.

I have battled with myself whether or not to write down the products that I use and what my routine is.  I do not want to propagate a false hope that if you use x,y and z product suddenly your skin will improve and your life will be better for it.

I have chosen to make my skin my one “vice” if you will.  I recognize that the products I own, use and review are not going to change the world.  They will only enhance mine to a certain extent.  They are little luxuries that I will give up in a heartbeat if a larger need comes along in my life.

However just as how back when I was a young adult my skin care practice is something that I can count on.  It is something I can control.  My life is no less chaotic now than it was at 18.  I crave my nightly cleansing routine as it makes me feel as if I am washing my day down the drain and starting anew.

My recommendation for anyone reading this who has a skincare issue that makes you feel embarrassed and ashamed is to seek out a good facialist and a good doctor.  Do not spend money on various product hoping for results.  Get down to the real source of the issue.  For those reading who just want to add a little glow and maybe get rid of some unsightly black heads and battle annoying fine lines I still recoomend getting a good facial and getting your skin examined. Even if your schedule and budget won’t allow for this to be a regular thing you can at least find out what kind of skin you have, and perhaps what products may be best.

I will be putting together a list of things I use that have been game changers for me, and I feel can benefit most every person out there.  And yes, I will post that list before Christmas if you want to hope Santa brings you some holiday glow.

Happy holidays to all my readers. Go out there and have some fun- just wear a strong SPF while doing so!!

 

Introducing Carol Brown- New Contributor

I find that in my line of work I end up telling clients endlessly about beauty routines and products that my closest friends enjoy, particularly my best friend Carol Brown, as she has a wicked sense of style and she is a working mother of 3.  I tell my clients frequently if Carol can find the time in her day for a beauty routine than they can too.

I have therefore decided to make Carol a part of this blog so that she can tell y’all herself what works, doesn’t work, and make you crack up laughing while she does it.

Carol and I met many years ago as two young punks who wanted to see Richmond VA have a better venue for live music than what we currently had. She and I formed a group called RVA Punk Nation that worked towards this goal which sadly never came to fruition- however a rock solid friendship was formed over those initial idealistic conversations.  Carol also is much of the reason I am girly in any sense of the word.  When we met she worked at The Body Shop and I asked her to help me find some makeup and skin care – when we were on our way to get me some goodies I actually said “whatever girls do we are doing it.”  I was, at the time, a tomboy working at a record store.  I was scared of being feminine and wearing makeup.   Most of my friends at that time were punk and metal dudes (some things never change) and years of bro-ing down about Venom, Buzzoven, and the Subhumans did not foster the most feminine side of me. Through Carol’s friendship (and many chemical haircuts we gave to each other) I started the journey of embracing my girly side- to the point of even going to see the Spice Girls play with her!

So here’s a few words from the lovely lady herself describing her life and current beauty routines.

1) You just recently quit working full time and are now a full time student seeking a BS in psychology and then plan on attending grad school after .  You also have three darling boys who you spend as much time with as possible-so as a busy active woman is it hard keeping up a skin care routine and doing up your makeup?

I can always work eyeliner into my schedule, although I’m prone to forgetting about skin care regimens. My biggest challenge is buying products, especially quality products. Once it was an issue of price- I was struggling as a single mom, spiraling into debt just to pay bills. Although not quite living in the lap of luxury now (I’m back at school to address that,) life with my partner have made things like “purchases” and “shoe purchases” possible, but I frequently am struck with intense regret and panic after said purchases. I tend to buy things right after I get my tax return, when their impact on my bank balance is less noticeable. That psychological trick is more effective than trying to convince myself that I’m worth it, or that my face is a good investment.

2) What are areas of your skin and makeup routine you would like to change? What are skin concerns?

So my face is doing this weird thing. Like, every year I’m alive? It totally gets older?? I don’t remember consenting to that. It likes to break out occasionally, to remind me of the stubborn tenacity of youth.

3) What is your current routine for skin and makeup?

My morning starts with Photodynamic Therapy from DERMAdoctor, the energizing eye renewal cream and 3-in-1 facial lotion with SPF 30. I follow with Revlon Photoready perfecting primer and buff on a little Lancome Teint Idole Ultra foundation in 110 Ivorie. My goal is to look like I’ve had enough sleep in the past decade but not hide my freckles. I fill out my nemesis, eyebrow and my other nemesis, my other eyebrow. I’ve been blessed with eyebrows that, in their natural state, make strangers on the street concerned for my welfare and, when arched, are extraordinarily sparse. I start with a light brown pencil (the brand dependent on which pencil has emerged from the black hole in my vanity that exclusively eats brow pencils) and follow with Benefit Gimme Brow. I use Clinique lash building primer and lash doubling mascara in black. I like a thick, fake looking lash and many mascaras that provide that contain latex, which I have a potentially life threatening allergy to. Clinique gives me big lashes and doesn’t flake off or kill me. I sometimes follow with a pink or grey smoky eye and/or some black kohl on my lower lash, and alway always always a cat eye with a black felt tip liner. I like the look of Loreal Visible Lift blush in soft peach on the apples of my cheeks and Benefit High Beam on my cheek and brow bones, but frequently wander away from the mirror before that happens.

My favorite make up remover is Lush Ultrabland. I currently wash my face with CeraVe Renewing SA cleanser and follow up with either Avon Anew glycolic pads or Retin-A, which I totally have a prescription to and no one did anything technically illegal to get me a tube. Once a week or so I will forgo the cosmeceuticals and slather on some Lush State of Grace serum and Skin’s Shangri-La.

 

Review of Needles No More by Dr. Brandt

Needles No More by Dr. Brandt is according to the company is a-

“Wrinkle relaxing cream targets lines & wrinkles on forehead, between brows and crow’s feet. A powerful tri-blend of wrinkle relaxers provide a targeted delivery of the wrinkle relaxing ingredients to where they are most needed. Instantly relaxing and smoothing expression lines, while helping to soften and reduce the appearance of lines & wrinkles and defend against future expression lines.”

WRINKLE SMOOTHING CREAM

I am generally a skeptic of anti-aging products as they are all marketed as if they are going to somehow reverse time and give us some crazy fountain of youth that is just not possible.  When it comes to aging I believe that what is best to do is age better, not try and stop the process.  And that means being healthier and being able to enjoy yourself more as you get into your golden years.

I try to embrace wrinkles and remember that they are a part of who I am and the years that I have lived. I have two exceptions though.  Crows feet and the lines that form in-between your forehead.  I have a hard time embracing the forehead as it tends to make me feel I look worried or angry even if I am not.  And I hate my crows feet because my makeup settles in them like crazy.

As an artist I always want to be able to be as creative as I want with my makeup and when the texture of my skin prevents me from doing so, well, I will pay some money to try and solve that issue.

In comes Needles no More. A friend of mine at one of the Sephora stores I work at for Benefit cosmetics gave me samples and told me how much it had softened her fine lines.  I have known her for a long time and did notice that the areas around her eyes looked very fresh- and as Dr. Bradnt promises, not frozen.

So I went ahead and tried the samples and was blown away.  I can now highlight and put powders on areas before that would crease like crazy a few hours into my shift.  I barely ever have to touch up my under eye concealer, and being in a humid climate that says a lot.

I have even seen some scarring clear up in places that I never thought would improve. And it does not make you look like you have had a face lift or work done.  I have purchased a bottle, and no, it’s not the cheapest thing in the world, but I truly love it and it is working well for me.  It even soothes my eye allergies.

It is hydrating and non-irritating.  It has a wonderful cooling sensation when you put it on and actually seems to help when I am having sinus issues!

You can use this in conjunction with anything else you already use.  For instance I use Retin A for acne and for wrinkle reduction and it works great with it, it keeps me from getting dry spots around the outer corner of my eyes that Retin A can cause.

Fellow makeup artist readers- this is a GREAT product to have in your kit since it does deliver immediate results.  I have used it on men to soften them up and found no need to do makeup and fillers over it.  I have used it on younger clients even to prevent makeup creasing in the corners of their eyes and loved the results.

The company is pretty hush hush about what exactly is in this.  It is a proprietary blend.  I have been told by people who work in the skin industry that it is a peptide blend- which in general- is the way most skin care companies are going with their line treatment products.

Dr. Brandt’s line is a cosmeceutical line.  What this means is that he is a dermatologist that has chosen to make his own product line and sell it in specialty retailers and dermatologists offices.  This means the price point is higher, but it also means the ingredients are far more potent than non- doctor run brands.

If you want to see user reviews I highly suggest going to the Sephora website and reading them- user reviews are non-biased and always worth looking into before splurging on a product like this.

http://www.sephora.com/needles-no-more-P391802

On my blog I always try and direct people to a lower cost similar product but I have to say that currently there is nothing out there that is lower cost that does what Needles No More does.  In fact this is far less than products with peptide blends usually cost at $89.

Something I do recommend that is cost-consciouess is taking Amino Acids orally.  L-Lysine is a great one.  It does internally some of what this product does, and Retin A, which is regenerating collagen, helping heal scars, cracked lips, etc.

I hope you find this review useful and please send me your comments, suggestions, etc.